Barolo 2009,
Tom Maresca đã hoàn toàn thất vọng với lần nếm thử năm 2009 này, cho rằng các nhà sản xuất rượu không giải quyết được khó khăn như thế nào của rượu cổ điển là một lý do cho màn trình diễn 'ảm đạm' này.
'Một vài năm 2009 biện minh cho sự lạc quan về tuổi thọ của chúng và hầu hết các nhà sản xuất đều nói về năm 2009 như một loại rượu cổ điển để uống trong thời gian ngắn'
Cổ điển năm 2009 của Barolo sẽ đối đầu với người tiêu dùng với một số sự thật phũ phàng và một số loại rượu khắc nghiệt. Tôi đã nếm trải hơn 200 ví dụ về Barolo 2009 tại Nebbiolo Prima ở Alba vào tháng Năm. Phần lớn các loại rượu vang được cung cấp trong năm ngày diễn ra sự kiện không chỉ thiếu màu Nebbiolo cổ điển mà hầu như không có mùi thơm cũng như hương vị Nebbiolo.
Tôi yêu Barolo, tôi tôn trọng và ngưỡng mộ nhiều nhà sản xuất của nó vì sự cống hiến và tầm nhìn rõ ràng của họ. Tuy nhiên, tôi phải nói rằng trong phiên bản cổ điển này, màn trình diễn của nhiều người trong số họ không chỉ đơn giản là thiếu, nó thật ảm đạm.
Tất nhiên vẫn có ngoại lệ: một số nhà sản xuất - Giacomo Fenocchio, Aldo Conterno, Prunotto, - hóa ra Barolo khá dễ uống. Một số ít - đặc biệt là Pio Cesare và Massolino-Vigna Rionda - thậm chí còn tin tưởng vào tiềm năng lão hóa của rượu vang của họ. Ý kiến đó thường được nhắc lại bởi các thương gia và người mua, những người đã nếm thử lựa chọn các loại rượu này sớm hơn một tuần so với các nhà báo, và với các nhà sản xuất (chứ không phải người mù). Nhưng theo khẩu vị của tôi - và theo ý kiến của nhiều nhà báo mà tôi đã nói chuyện - hầu hết các nhà sản xuất Barolo dường như đã đánh giá thấp độ khó của món đồ cổ điển này. Rất ít những năm 2009 biện minh cho sự lạc quan về tuổi thọ của chúng, và hầu hết các nhà sản xuất đều nói về năm 2009 như một loại rượu cổ điển để uống trong thời gian ngắn.
Giacomo Conterno, thuộc nhà máy rượu Aldo Conterno ở xã Monforte, là một trong những nhà sản xuất thẳng thắn hơn. Anh ấy nói: ‘Năm 2009 là thời kỳ cổ điển của người trồng nho. Vào cuối tháng 8, một số cây nho [Nebbiolo] đã gần như chín và một số cây chưa chín hoàn toàn - chênh lệch giữa chúng gần 30 ngày. Những gì bạn đã làm về điều đó xác định loại rượu bạn làm ra. ”Đánh giá thường lạc quan của Consorzio về vụ thu hoạch năm nay rất cẩn thận:
'Nho năm 2009 cũng sẽ được nhớ đến vì kiểu chín không đều của nó ... Về sự trưởng thành về mặt công nghệ, loại nho có thể được xếp vào giữa những năm 2003 và 2007 ... Về độ chín của phenolic ... dữ liệu được tìm thấy trong nho có thể so sánh với năm 2003 ... trong kết quả cổ điển này không phải lúc nào cũng được cải thiện bằng cách trì hoãn việc thu hoạch. '
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